Took a while to find it (thx, Elysa), but had a wonderful visit with Michele (shown above) at Veneziastampa. He and his partner Luca have been operating a print shop in the historical center of Venice for over 25 years. He has a gorgeous and meticulously maintained 1950 Original Heidelberg Offset oder Letterset press. His shop is in an old building–Venice old–a few steps from Rialto, and he tells a great story of how they had to knock out the front wall to move the press in. I bought some exquisite book plates and a few cards and had a hard time leaving. Truly a magical place.