Pha That Luang Altar

One of many altars at Pha That Luang in Vientiane, Laos. I love all of the different shades of saffron. Together with the blue vase. And the piercing gaze of the Buddha. [NOTE: In my browser, the highlight color of links matches the saffron in the image perfectly].

Collateral Damage

In my recent post on Wat Si Saket (see Wat Si Saket), I suggested that the monastery had escaped the Siamese-Lao war of 1828 unscathed. The Vietnam War was a different story. There is a whole storeroom of casualties from this conflict.

Tuk-tuk to Pha That Luang

Pha That Luang, the gold covered stupa located about 4 km NW of Vientiene, is the most important national monument in Laos.  Of the four wat originally built around the stupa, only two remain: Wat That Luang Tai to the south and Wat That Luang Neua to the north. The later is the monastic residence of the Supreme Patriarch of Lao Buddhism [NOTE: The stupa is said to contain the breast bone of Lord Buddha]. 

The most enjoyable way to visit this spectacular Buddhist complex is by tuk-tuk.

Wat Si Saket

Si Saket is a beautiful wat, or Buddhist monastery, in Vientiane, Laos. It was constructed in 1818 on the orders of King Anouvong, and is probably the oldest temple in Vientiane. The terrace surrounding the temple is lined with over 300 Lao-styled Buddhas of varying age, size, and material (e.g. wood, stone, or bronze).

The terrace walls are riddled with small niches, containing several thousand gilded or ceramic Buddhas. [NOTE: The temple was (mostly) spared by the armies of Siam when they sacked Ventiane in 1827].

Chuc Thanh III

These four charming young ladies were the first to greet me as I walked through Chuc Thanh pagoda (see Chuc Thanh  and Chuc Thanh II). Wonderful haircuts. Beautiful smiles. [NOTE: The girls are trainee nuns who have entered monastic life at a young age.  They live and are educated at Chuc Thanh].

MOU

On the 8th of December, a Memorandum of Understanding was sign between The New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) and the Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology (VAST). The agreement was signed by Prof. Chau Van Minh, President of VAST (on the left), and Dr. Jim Miller, Dean and Vice President for Botanical Science at NYBG (on the right). Let the fun begin. [NOTE: Dr. Ninh Khac Ban (see Which Rattan Is That?) is standing second from the right in the back row].

Mỹ Sơn

Southwest of Danang in Central Vietnam is a cluster of ancient Hindu ruins dedicated to the god Shiva. Known as Mỹ Sơn, the temples were constructed between the 4th and the 14th century by successive kings of the Champa dynasty. Truly spectacular, and I took a lot of pictures.  A few are presented below. I particularly like the one of the headless statue. [NOTE: Many of the structures were severely damaged during the Vietnam War and are gradually being re-constructed].

Chuc Thanh II

Young monks at Chuc Thanh pagoda doing their homework as the rain pours down outside. Interesting tonsure. [NOTE: I shot this from the meditation hall, i.e. I was not standing out in the rain].

Hoan Kiem Turtle

Was having lunch at a cafe by Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi (see Lake Hoan Kiem) and I saw a lot of people crowding around the bank.  I went over to see what was going on, and - I saw the Hoan Kiem turtle!! To put this in context, this is a bit like seeing the Loch Ness monster. A dead Rafetus leloii was recovered from the lake in 1967 weighing 440 kg and measuring 1.9 m, and it was unclear if there was another turtle in the lake or not. There have been periodic turtle sightings in Hoan Kiem over the past ten years, however, and it is generally thought that there is one last Rafetus leloii turtle still in the lake. One in Hoan Kiem Lake, and two in zoos in China. And these, apparently, are the last three individuals left of this species. Sigh.  I am humbled to have seen one of the three this afternoon.

UPDATE: The Rafetus leloii specimen found in the lake 1967 is on display at the Ngoc Son temple. This is a big turtle.

Chuc Thanh Pagoda

Chuc Thanh pagoda, located about 2 km north of Hoi An (see Hoi An), was founded in 1454 by the Chinese monk Minh Hai. The main altar at this ancient temple complex is shown below. Note the two large, and well-used, mokugyos (mộc ngư in Vietnamese) to the left of the altar.

The meditation hall contains beautiful wooden statues of prominent Chuc Thanh ancestors and bodhisattvas, as well as a large, cast-iron bell that was said to be several hundred years old. This was a very peaceful and magical place.