Early one morning we went to the central market in Tanai to buy supplies for our trip down the Ledo Road (see Hukaung Valley Rattan Survey). In spite of the remoteness and inaccessibility of this town, its market is surprisingly well stocked. Grains, dried fish, fresh vegetables, cheap Chinese tools, baskets, every type of plastic item imaginable, a dazzling variety of cigarette brands, bulk spices, batteries, and an endless supply of smiles.